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Di sini anda dapat berbagi hasil pekerjaan detailing,berdiskusi,dan mencari informasi tentang merawat penampilan kendaraan andaemoticon-Smilie

Auto detailing (UK: Car valeting), is the performance of an extremely thorough cleaning, polishing and waxing of an automobile, both inside and out, to produce a show-quality level of detail. Besides improving appearance, detailing helps to preserve resale value of a car.

Today, the United States may have more than 50,000 detailers in operation.Some are franchisees of national auto detailing chains. Many have no actual business address, instead working as mobile operators or in vacant parking lots. Detailing/valeting can be practiced for personal satisfaction, and it is also performed to prepare a car for car shows that feature the appearance of cars.
Exterior detailing

Exterior detailing involves cleaning and bringing a shine to the car's paint, chrome trim, windows, wheels, and tires. Different detailers use different products to do this, including detergents, detail clay, waxes, polishes, and a variety of applicators and special cloths.

The three main components of exterior car detailing are cleaning, polishing, and protecting. Cleaning refers to removing all foreign surface particles from exterior surfaces through the use of washing and claying. A clay bar helps to clean contamination/dirt from within the clearcoat that cannot be removed through weekly washing such as bugs, tar, sap, etc. Correcting refers to using mechanical polishes by hand or with a machine and specific polishing pads that remove micrometres of clearcoat from a vehicle to remove fine scratches and swirls from a paint surface produced from improper washing or drying technique. Protecting involves the application of a protective wax (in liquid or paste form) that prevents foreign matter from adhering to the surface of the vehicle, including water, bugs splatter, tar, and dirt. Waxes and sealants provide this barrier against the elements. Waxes are some of the most expensive elements of the detailing process.

Interior detailing

Interior detailing involves cleaning the passenger compartment of the car. All of the dash area, panels, windows, and seats are cleaned extensively. Vacuuming is standard,and steam cleaning, liquid cleaners, and brushes may be used to remove stains on upholstery. Some nonporous surfaces may also be polished. Some detailers remove seats to provide the most thorough clean possible.

Engine detailing

Some detailers may offer engine detailing, in which steam, high pressure water, degreasers and all-purpose cleaners are used to clean under the hood of the car.

Detailing does not include body work, painting, mechanical or upholstery repair.
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Autolock Thread by Hansip

Thread ini adalah thread lanjutan dari http://kask.us/10637723 yang sudah melebihi batas reply.
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tTerima kasih.
Good washing method
In this section I hope to explain some good practices for washing a car that help in the prevention of inflicting swirl marks to paint. **

Whats Wrong With A Sponge?
Millions of people wash their car using a sponge. But if you read the threads on this forum you will see that hardly any members are washing their cars using a traditional sponge... Why is that? It all comes down to the flat flace of the sponge:
Imagine automotive paintwork with your typical dirt and grit paricles sutck on the top of the paint, that you want to wash off to revela your car's shine. Some of these dirt particles are sharp:
Now, if you place a sponge down ontop of these grit particles as you would do if you were washing your car with a sponge, the grit particles become trapped between the face of the sponge and the paint - they have no where to go owing to the flat face of the sponge:
When you wipe the sponge across the paintwork, you wipe the sharp grit particles straight across the paint. As they move over the paint, the dirt particles leave a thin hairline scratch:
These little scratches are highly visible in bright light because they catch the light, and this is what gives you the dreaded swirl marks that rob yuo paint of gloss and colour and ruin the car's look. A pic of bad swirl marks, the result of sponge washing of a car:
Wash mitts
Lambswool and Sheepswool wash mitts have been developped to get around the problems of sponges trapping grit particles by the flat face. If you run your fingers through a lambwool mitt, you can see that it is deep pile and not flat faced:
Returning to the grit partciles on paintwork, when the wash mitt is placed onto them, the grit particles are absorbed into the mitt - safely away from paintwork so that they cannot scratch the paint:
Therefore, sweeping the mitt across the paint doesn't sweep the grit over the paint also and so you don't inflict lots of tiny hairline scratches.*

Note: While washmitts are considerbaly better than sponges, it is impossible to completely avoid inflicting the odd swirl marks here and there using a wash mitt. What follows in this thread are tips on how to keep these inflicted swirls to an absolute minimum.
There are a great number of washmitts on the market nowadays, ranging from lambswool and sheepswool to cotton chenille to microfibre. In my experience the best mitts are the lambswool and sheepswool. When choosing a mitt, choose one with a soft deep pile that will be kind to paintwork. Two excellent mitts are:

Dodo Juice Yeti Fist Wash Mitt
Mother's Sheepskin Wash Mitt

and there are others too.*

So Many Shampoos! Which to Choose?
At the end of the day, shampoo choice for your car is going to come down to personal prefernce. But there are so many shampoos on the market its hard to know which ones to go for! A couple of things to look for when choosing a car shampoo:*

1. Lubricity in the washing solution - you want a shampoo that makes the washing solution feel nice and lubricated so that dirt particles can be encapsulated by this lubricant and any that aren't absorbed into the wash mitt will slide off the paint without scratching in the rinsing water. Soapy suds are pleasing and can make car washing fun, but lubricated wash solution is more important.*

2. A shampoo should contain no harsh detergents if you are washing a car that you have spent many hours polishing, sealing and waxing. Harsh detergents strip wax straight off the paintwork leaving your paint surface dried out and unprotected. Fairy Liquid is therefore a big no no for washing cars. You feel what happens to the sking on your hand if in prolonged contact with harsh detergents, it dires the skin out - it will do similar damage to paint.*

With this in mind, there are still a huge number of car shampoos that fit the bill - ones that I have used and rate are the following, so if you're struggling on which to choose, try one of the following:

Dodo Juice Supernatural
Meguiars #62 Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner
Meguiars Hyper Wash (awsome dilution ratio of 400:1 - lasts ages!)
Poorboys Super Slick & Suds
Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner
Einszett Perls

What is the "Two-Bucket Method"
Again, millions of people use a single bucket of car wash solution to wash their car, but if you read the threads on this site you will find most members wash their cars using the "Two-Bucket Method" - whats that?

As suggested by the name, the two bucket method uses two buckets, not one. In thie first bucket, you have your car wash solution as normal. In the second bucket you have clean fresh water. First off you soak your mitt in the wash solution and begin washing the car (as described below). Then, before dunking the wash mitt back into the wash solution, you rinse it out in the second bucket of fresh water - this rinses out the dirt and grit particles from this mitt so that they cannot come into contact with your paint, reducing the number of swirls inflicted.
Here I describe the generic technique I use to wash cars...

Wheels, Arches, Door Jambs
Start with these. When washing your wheels using a wheel brush, the shampoo solution (or wheel cleaner solution) can spray up onto paintwork, and if youve just cleaned the paintwork, you'll end up needing to clean it again to remove the dirty spray from wheels! Don't forget to open all doors and boot and clean the doorjambs and the insides of the door (without getting wash solution into the locking mechanisms, I cover these up) - these areas can pick up a lot of dirt as well and it adds something a little extra to open the door and see the jambs as clean as the rest of the car as these areas are often forgotten about.*

This loosens up dirt and wets the paintwork ready for washing. Using a hose pipe, direct a gentle spray of water at the paintwork at a shallow angle. If you blast the paintwork with high pressure at ninety degrees to the paintwork, you'll force grit into the paint and cause scatches. Just a gentle spray of water to wet the paintwork is all that is required. If you don't have access to a hose, use a watering can with the rose fitted to produce a gentle spary of water:


This is the major stage of the washing process, and the time when most scratches can be inflicted if care is not taken. This removes fresh surface contimaniation from paintwork such as dust, grit, mud, road film etc... Add the correct amount of car wash solution (according to the dilution ratio on the bottle) to your bucket and fill with water to produces suds and lubricated wash solution:


The water can be cold, or warm - I prefer warm water as it keeps my hands warm, especially in winter!!*

Now, use the two bucket method described above. Use two washmitts - one for the top areas of the car (roof, bonnet, upper sides above the wheel arch line) and one for the lower areas (below the wheel arch line, front and rear bumpers). Use a light parallel motion when washing, with out applying forceful pressure that will inflict scratches.*


If a mark is stubborn and wont come off with gentle movement of the wash mitt, it will require a stronger cleaner such as tar remover or clay. Start from the roof and work down, therefore the large quantities of dirt that form on the lower parts of car are not transferred to the traditionally cleaner upper areas of the car. Try to avoid letting the shampoo dry on the paintwork as this will cause streaks and soap spots, for this reason try to avoid washing in direct sunlight. If you are in direct sunlight, it may be neccessary to wash and rinse a panel art a time. Continue until the car is completed.

Once washed, the next step is to rinse away the soap bubbles and film. If using a hose I first of all use a light spary of water to wet the paintwork (using the rose on the watering can), just like the pre-rinsing step. Then follow this up with a flow of water from the hose (rose off the water can this time). Most shampoos are free rinsing and require this flow of water to make the rinsing water "sheet" off of the paintwork. (This sheeting effect will work best on well sealed and waxed paintwork). On a sealed/waxed car, keep rinsing until the water sheets cleanly off the paintwork and leaves behind only water beads and not flat regions of water. This makes the car essentially self drying! Rinse from the top of the car down.*

Another risk stage as far as scrathes are concerned. First off, I find that using a waffleweave drying towel is far safer and more effective than using a chamois leather. A couple of examples of good quality waffleweave drying towels are:

Meguiars Water Magnet Drying Towel
Poorboys Waffleweave

Also Pakshak towels are very very good too! Rather than sweeping the towel across the paintwork to remove the water, I prefer to pat dry the car. The sweeping of the towel has more risk of inflicting scratches as stray grit particles may be picked up and inadvertantly swept across the paint inflicting swirl marks. Instead, pat dry the car by laying the towel down over the wet paintwork. Gently pat the towel, then lift off the paintwork. The towel will absorb the water to dry the paint. A thin flim of water may be left behind but this will quickly evaporate to leave a sparkling, streak free finish.

And there we have it - safe washing technique to avoid inflicting dreaded swirls into paintwork. *

Carnauba wax
Carnauba (English pronunciation: /kɑːrˈnɔːbə/ or /kɑːrˈnaʊbə/), also called Brazil wax and palm wax, is a wax of the leaves of the palm Copernicia prunifera, a plant native to and grown only in the northeastern Brazilian states of Piauí, Ceará, and Rio Grande do Norte. It is known as "queen of waxes" and usually comes in the form of hard yellow-brown flakes. It is obtained from the leaves of the carnauba palm by collecting them, beating them to loosen the wax, then refining and bleaching the wax.

Carnauba consists mostly of aliphatic esters (40 wt%), diesters of 4-hydroxycinnamic acid (21.0 wt%), ω-hydroxycarboxylic acids (13.0 wt%), and fatty acid alcohols (12 wt%). The compounds are predominantly derived from acids and alcohols in the C26-C30 range. Distinctive for carnauba wax is the high content of diesters as well as methoxycinnamic acid.[3]

Carnauba wax is sold in several grades, labeled T1, T2, and T4, depending on the purity level. Purification is accomplished by filtration, centrifugation, and bleaching.

Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, dental floss, food products such as sweets, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax and with turpentine. Use for paper coatings is the most common application in the United States. It is the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.

Because of its hypoallergenic and emollient properties as well as its shine, carnauba wax appears as an ingredient in many cosmetics formulas where it is used to thicken lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, deodorant, various skin care preparations, sun care preparations, etc.[citation needed] It is also used to make cutler's resin.

It is the finish of choice for most briar tobacco or smoking pipes. It produces a high gloss finish when buffed on to wood. This finish dulls with time rather than flaking off (as is the case with most other finishes used).

Although too brittle to be used by itself, carnauba wax is often combined with other waxes (principally beeswax) to treat and waterproof many leather products where it provides a high-gloss finish and increases leather's hardness and durability.

It is also used in the pharmaceutical industry as a tablet-coating agent. Adding the carnuaba wax aids in the swallowing of tablets for patients. A very small amount (less than a hundredth of 1 percent by weight. i.e.: 30 grams for a 300 kg batch) is sprinkled onto a batch of tablets after they've been sprayed and dried. The wax and tablets are then tumbled together for a few minutes before being discharged from the tablet-coating machine.

In 1890, Charles Tainter patented the use of carnauba wax on phonograph cylinders as a replacement for a mixture of paraffin and beeswax.

An aerosol mold release is formed by suspending carnauba wax in a solvent. This aerosol version is used extensively in molds for semiconductor devices. Semiconductor manufacturers also use chunks of carnauba wax to break in new epoxy molds or to release the plunger when it sticks. When used as a mold release, carnauba, unlike silicone or PTFE, is suitable for use with liquid epoxy, epoxy molding compounds (EMC), and some other plastic types. Carnauba wax is compatible with epoxies and generally enhances their properties along with those of most other engineering plastics.

Carnauba is used in melt/castable explosives to produce an insensitive explosive formula such as Composition B, which is a blend of RDX and TNT.

INCI name is Copernicia Cerifera (carnauba) wax
E Number is E903.
Melting point: 82–86 °C (180–187 °F), among the highest of natural waxes.
Relative density is about 0.97
It is among the hardest of natural waxes, being harder than concrete in its pure form.
It is practically insoluble in water, soluble on heating in ethyl acetate and in xylene, practically insoluble in ethyl alcohol.

Definisi dan fungsi dari:

AIO (All in One)
Adalah sebuah formulasi paint cleaner yang di imbuhkan fitur proteksi.Dalam hal ini bisa berupa carnauba wax ataupun synthetic sealant yang di mix sedemikian rupa agar dapat meninggalkan lapisan proteksi walaupun berfungsi sebagai cleaner.Kandungan cleanernya bisa berupa chemical ataupun butiran abrasif dalam jumlah yang lebih sedikit di banding finishing polish.
-Megs Gold Class
-Carlack kuning

Synthetic Sealant
Adalah polymer yang merupakan produksi kimia non natural.Polymer memiliki keunggulan utama dalam memberikan lapisan proteksi berupa UV Guard dengan cara cross linked pada permukaan cat.Sealant cenderung menghasilkan finish look yang glassy atau layaknya di timpa lapisan transparan tambahan.
-Blackfire Wet Diamond
-Opti Seal

Carnauba wax
Barang mewah dalam dunia detailingemoticon-Big Grin
Carnauba wax di cintai banyak orang karena memberikan hasil yang glow dan looks wet karena kemampuannya membiaskan cahaya yang jatuh ke permukaan.Selain itu carnauba juga di gilai karena water beading effect dan karakteristik sheetingnya yang mana air jatuh secara butiran dari panel saat di siram air.Dan walau tidak berumur lama di bawah terpaan sinar matahari dalam jangka panjang,carnauba wax adalah rajanya proteksi dalam menghadapi air hujan dan mencegah water spot dalam jangka waktu tertentu.

Apakah wax mengikis cat?
wax tidak akan pernah bisa mengikis cat,namun AIO/cleanerwax akan mengangkat lapisan cat/clear mati karena proses oksidasi.Dan tergantung pada seberapa parah kondisinya,AIO/cleanerwax bisa saja dengan mudah mengangkat lapisan clear/cat yang teroksidasi itu.Namun pada cat yang terawat baik,AIO/cleanerwax bahkan bisa saja tidak mengangkat secuilpun lapisan clear/cat.

Wax salah label?
Wax salah label adalah produk yang bisa saja merupakan compound/polish abrasif namun di label "WAX" oleh pabrikannya.Dalam hal ini bukan definisi wax yang salah,tapi pabrikan yang memasang labelnya yang ngaco.
Choosing the best machine polisher for your needs is a daunting task. There are many terms associated with machine polishing and the types of polishers that for a novice it is often overwhelming: D/A, circular, defects, jeweling, pads, rpm, pressure, speed, opm, rotary, forced rotation, orbital, passes, two mode, variable speed, ETC.

Choosing the best polisher requires answering a couple of questions.

One, how much experience do you have or do you have any prior experience machine polishing?
Two, what are you looking to accomplish by machine polishing?
Three, how frequently will you be machine polishing your car.
Four, how much time are you willing to invest in machine polishing.
What is a machine polisher and what is it used for? For automotive use, a machine polisher is a tool that moves a media (polishing pad, applicator, sand paper) against a surface (paint, glass, metal). Machine polishers, when used on paint, are used to increase the appearance of the paint by working an abrasive polish against the paint or applying a thin layer of wax or sealant.

What are the different types of machine polishers? Machine polishers are defined by the type of movement or action the machines produce. Orbital polishers are single action machines, meaning they move in one repeating direction, and mimic the tight circles of a hand. Rotary polishers are also single action machines, but act to spin the pad at a high rate. In between an Orbital Polisher and a Rotary Polisher is a Dual-Action Polisher. These polishers combine the tight circles of an Orbital Polisher with the spinning motion of a Rotary Polisher. Dual-Action Polishers can be random in nature, that is the spinning of the pad is controlled by physics, or forced rotation, where the pad is mechanically driven to spin.


Orbital Polishers mimic the motion of hand polishing. This older style of polishers are difficult to find and often lack the power necessary to polish the surface and remove paint defects , although they work well for applying and removing gloss enhancing glazes, sealants, and waxes. These polishers are available at most parts stores and outlets.

Random Orbital Polisher


Random Orbital Polishers such as the Porter Cable 7242XP and Meguiar’s G110 are dual-action polishers that combine the movement of an orbital machine with the spinning motion of a rotary polisher. The speed of the polisher is rated in orbits per minute or OPM and is variable via a selector dial; This gives Random Orbital Polishers the ability to effectively polish the paint as well as apply waxes and sealants.

The pad is not forced to spin; the machine only controls the orbit of the pad. Instead the momentum created by the high speed orbital motion causes the pad to rotate in the same direction as the orbit. There is no direct link, making these polishers very safe for novices. The combined motion creates a curly-q pattern the pattern that is ‘m’ shaped. The pattern is infinitely variable depending on the number of orbits that occur during the rotation of the pad. This is a factor of the stroke length, the pad size, and how much grip the the pad has to the surface. This variable constantly changes pad is moved across the paint’s surface creating a truly ‘random’ pattern.

Using a smaller diameter pad or a pad with a stiffer structure will allow the pad to spin at a faster rate allowing the machine create a powerful polishing motion.

Advantages: Random Orbital Polishers feature interchangeable backing plates which allow the mounting of various polishing pads and polishing pad sizes, as well as carpet brushes and other accessories. Variable speeds make Random Orbital Polishers very versatile and well suited to polishing away paint defects and applying waxes and sealants.

Disadvantages: Random Orbital Polishers lack the power to remove large amounts of paint quickly, limiting their effectiveness when polishing out significant damage.

Bottom Line: Random Orbital Polishers safely produce good results for beginner polishers. There is a slight learning curve to learning this polisher, as an increase in experience and using different techniques and polishes will allow these style polishers to produce amazing results. It is easy to learn and challenging to master.


Forced Rotation Polishers such as the Flex XC3401 VRG or the Makita Two Mode are Dual-Action Polishers which combine the motions of the orbital and rotary polisher. The difference between these (forced rotation) polishers and Random Orbital Polishers, is that these polishers drive both the orbit and the rotation of the pad.

The forced rotation of the pad marginally increases the risk of damaging the paint from heat build up or from the the edge of the pad contacting the paint. However the motion of the machine still makes it a very safe choice and ideal for novices. The number of orbits is directly related to the number of rotations of the pad, therefore the pattern the machine produces is not random. A gear drive forces the pad to rotate in the opposite direction of the orbit creating a pattern that is the inverse of a Random Orbital Polishers; A ‘w’ pattern.

The increased power of Forced Rotation Dual-Action Orbital Polishers gives them an advantage in polishing power over their Random Orbital counterparts in most circumstances. While they are slightly more difficult to control because the forced rotation will drive the machine across the paint, the repeating pattern of the machine allows beginning polishers to achieve near optimum results from the get go.

Advantages: The increased power and forced rotation will allow these polishers to produce results faster then a Random Orbital Polisher in most cases. The fixed pattern of movement makes microscopic marring difficult to see, eliminating visible holograms in most cases. Can be used to polish out paint defects as well as apply glazes, sealants, and waxes.

Disadvantages: Forced Rotation Dual-Action Polishers do not feature traditional backing plates that be exchanged for other sizes. The fixed rate of rotations per orbit can limit the power of these polishers in certain circumstances.

Bottom Line: While slightly more difficult to control, Forced Rotation Dual-Action Polishers are ideal for beginners because they produce more consistent results regardless of inconsistencies in technique. The orbital/rotary motion greatly reduces the risk of creating buffer trails, allowing for more consistent finishes on the paint.


Rotary Polishers are sometimes referred to as circular or high-speed polishers because they spin the pad at high rate. This direct polishing action eliminates all variables associated with Orbital or Dual-Action Polishers. The direct spinning action of the pad creates more friction on the paint resulting in an increase of surface tempature. The power and motion of the machine increases the risk of damaging the paint in the hands of less experienced users.

Rotary polishers require more time to learn, but those who use them will tell you that it is time well spent. The power and direct control of the machine allows the artists who use these machines to create some of the most perfect paint surfaces in the world. Rotary polishers break down polishes (particularly traditional polishes) in the most even and efficient manner, and the speed which they polish cannot be matched with the other styles of machines. Nothing has the potential to create stunning finishes and remove severe damage faster then a rotary polisher.

Advantages: Rotary polishers are the most powerful polishers and are capable at removing defects quickly and efficiently. The direct motion of the machine gives the user infinite control over the polishing action, allowing experienced users to create stunning finishes.

Disadvantages: Rotary polishers produce a repeating pattern as they work against the paint which increases the risk for damage and creates microscopic scratches known as holograms that are visible on some paints. These polishes possibly offer the highest potential but require the most experience to achieve that potential The spinning motion is not ideal for applying waxes or sealants.

Bottom Line: Rotary polishers are ideal for those who have the time to learn the machine. The users experience and skill is directly responsible for the results achieved, which can be a benefit or a negative depending on who is viewing it.

Abrasives chart

Daftar seller:
-Car Nuba's (Dodo Juice Indonesia)




-Gw sendiriemoticon-Big Grin

Daftar workshop:
-Show Car Garage
-DIGO a_peot






-Gw sendiri lagiemoticon-Stick Out Tongue

(mohon maaf untuk yang belum di sebut,silahkan PM biar gw edit)

*yang kurang silahkan di tambahkan...**
wah,akhirnya bikin juga ya bro.....
smoga disini lebih tertib dan informatif...
wah rumah baru nih...

moga makin sukses dunia per detailingan indonesia
Jempol buat TS.
Daftar bikin KTP dulu Bos Cat.emoticon-Rate 5 Star
Mantan nic gan.,,, rumah baru nya keren, sayang nya guide nya b.ingris, malah dulu b.ingris sering cabut lagi.emoticon-Cape d... (S)
Injekin kaki dulu yg pertama dirumah barunya oom andru
ikutan om aris deh, numppang nginjekin kaki dirumah baru nya om andrew yah emoticon-Selamat
mantap dah rumah baru... congratz semoga tetap rame...numpang absen dulu hihihihi....
Rumah baru reserve 1 emoticon-Blue Guy Peace
misi agan agan, ane punya masalah bercak sunction gps nih di kaca depan...
gmn gan cara ngilanginnya?

Kaca depannya dilapis dgn kaca film gk ???

dilapis gan, gak harus ganti kaca filmkanemoticon-Sorry
wow... rumah baru lagi..

om aris_hermawan ijin copas y..

Spoiler for karakter carnauba wax:

Spoiler for karakter spray wax:

Spoiler for karakter paint sealant:

Spoiler for karater quick detailer:

credit: aris_hermawan
Rumah baru..?

selamat yaa

Wah kayaknya kl dilapis KF sih dibersihin gmn pun pasti KF nya rusak minimal daya serap UV nya akan berkurang. MUngkin master2 detailing yang lain bisa kasih solusi terbaik ..... kl ane sih tempat GPS ane pasang cuman pd saat mau perjauh aja ke tempat yg ane gk tau om selebihnya ane taruh trs di dlm dasboard gk nempel trs di kaca emoticon-Blue Guy Peace
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